10-24-02 Prep Horizon Room, UI Commons, 3:30-5:00. Plan 8:15 AM rendezvous in Sweet Ave. parking lot. All drivers should arrange to pick up passengers at their homes. Directions: Hwy 95 north to Plummer. Take rt. at Chevron, toward St. Maries. Proceed downhill, under RR bridge ~10-miles. Go left at Heyburn State Park, to Hawley’s Landing.

10-25-02 Carpool to Hawley’s Landing, Heyburn State Park.

Sense of Place Seminar participants met with students, instructors, and others from the Tribal School, North Idaho College, and ________ and separated into four learning groups. It was a clear but chilly morning. Felix Aripa told us about the Schitsu’umsh through storytelling. In speaking about fish that were lost from the lake due to loss of trees that shaded it, he said, "Those old Indian biologists were ahead of our scientists." His ancestors knew to "leave something for the animals…We’re together; we’ll always help one another." He emphasized the importance of learning the native language and of re-naming places in the words of the Schitsu’umsh. "Our language is just coming back over the hill…like the sun," he said. After the storytelling, Raymond caught some in the group unaware when he launched into a game of "Simon Says" ("Seltice Says")…Coeur d'Alene-style! What a fun way to begin to learn new words!

Ranger Brad Garasky led each group on a wetland nature hike, and told us about the Plummer Creek Interpretive Center and its wildlife viewing blind. It was interesting to learn that ~25,000 pounds of wild rice (introduced by bird hunters in the 1960s) were harvested from the park last year. He talked about the white pine restoration program, necessary not only because of decimation by white pine blister rust, but also because white pine was a favored lumber source, particularly for matchsticks.

A group leader from the Coeur d’Alene Office of the Fish and Wildlife Dept. took visitors on a plant identification hike on which we learned that the grand fir (Abies grandis) can be identified by white lines on the underside of its needles and by the rounded ends of its needles). In contrast, the Doug fir (Pseudotsuga menzesii), with pointed needles, is actually related to the pine. The Native American guide pointed out big 300-400 year old pines and told us, "We call these our grandfather trees." He explained that the reasons we observed such a variety of plant species there was because they grew in a protected park area and because it is a mountain-to-lake transitional zone. We saw Western red cedar, pine, Doug fir, Western larch, Grand fir, hawthorne, oceanspray, snowberry, thimbleberry, ninebark, Oregon grape, and redtwig dogwood (AKA "the ice cream of the wildlife in the forest" because they consider it such a delicacy).

Another representative from Fish and Wildlife showed participants how to harvest sqigwst (water potatoes) at Cottonwood Point on Benewah Lake. Many in our group would recall this as one of the most memorable and meaningful elements of the trip.

Everyone shared lunch of hotdogs cooked on sticks, chips, fruit, pop or water, and s’mores.

At Mission Point, John Hartman, told us that the St. Joe River flows through Lake Chatcolet and that the dam built at Post Falls in 1906 raised the water level by 12 feet. Felix Aripa told of the horse races that were held there at one time. In discussing environmental issues, he said, "The cottonwoods are the keepers of the river…kind of a gift to the environment…the fish." He speculated that the shade trees disappeared secondary to the boat wakes. Historically, he said, this area had big birch stands, favored for building canoes. He compared the old canoe construction site to a big GM plant today. He told the group that the Tribe wants to restore the cutthroat and bull trout. With reduced erosion, the water will become less murky, and the numbers of resident fish should increase. According to Mr. Aripa, the lake means the same thing now as it did to the older elders. "It brings us peace," he said. Cognizant of wider environmental degradation, he cautioned that that’s the thing for the whole country, that we should think about the whole environment, keep our water clean, and eradicate invasive weeds like hawk weed. In closing, he advised, "Go home and feel good."

At the Casino, Director Charlie Morris gave us a tour. According to Mr. Morris, all 96 rooms there have been booked every weekend since its opening. Pending expected passage of Proposition 1 and with architectural assistance from Group West of Seattle, the casino plans to add 50-100 rooms. The present facility includes a daycare/learning center for children 12 and under. M-F it serves 650 employees’ children and has had the effect of markedly decreasing absenteeism. On weekends, it is open to the children of casino/hotel customers. For 12-18 year olds, they offer a video arcade. (Bill M. asked about the demographics of clientele.) Seventy percent of folks there are from the Spokane-Coeur d'Alene area. Sixty percent are retirees, with (presumably) greater disposable incomes. (Q: RE problem gamblers…) Floor managers are taught to approach too-familiar faces in the casino, but only offer gentle advice, not insistence. One banquet area seats up to 1,000, but as with a recent National American Indian Congress, the space can be divided into five separate units. Another space seats 1,800 for concerts, boxing matches, etc. A boxing ring is suspended from the ceiling. Five tribes operating casinos now contribute $83 million to their combined regional economies. The Coeur d’Alene Casino generates $10-15 million for the regional economy each year. By law, the Tribe has limited the numbers of gambling machines to a 25% growth ever. Employees have profit sharing, commonly receive $1,000 bonus checks, and if employed at least 24 hours per week, may have their college education, including books, paid by the Tribe. About one year ago, the casino introduced beer and wine for consumption in the lounge only. The seafood buffet on Friday nights draws guests from hundreds of miles away. The annual pow wow is another big draw. The next one will be March 29, 2003. Remarking on growing up on the Reservation, moving away, then returning, Mr. Morris said, "You’ve got to go where the buffalo go. Now, the buffalo are here." There are 1,800 Tribal members, including 600-700 on the Reservation. (Tribal Chairman Ernie Stensgar would later estimate those numbers at 1,800 and 800.) Those in need have Indian Help instead of federal welfare. Mr. Morris emphasized that casino employees are encouraged to reinforce the fantasy that exists inside the casino walls. As his young daughter so aptly put it, "Daddy, this is just like Chucky Cheese for Adults!"

10-26-02 10-25 participants joined by Elinor Michel (who arrived from the airport Fri. evening), Lauren Fins (driver), Rula Awwad-Rafferty (driver), & Steve Drown. Group visited the Wellness Center, opened in 1998. Already, it has 2,700 (community, Tribal, and employee) members. Programs include community health, health education, community outreach, and a fitness department. (Tribal Headstart took over the daycare there.) According to Cheryl Weixel, "We change lifestyles one person at a time."

Ray Spadling, Director of Funded Programs & Project Development, told us that Indian Health Services provides primary funding, but the (wellness) program is collaborative between the Tribe and the community, so the Dept. of Health & Human Services contributes too. Some support also comes from the Robert Woods Johnson Foundation. Of 1,400 residents in Worley and Plummer, 1,200 are members of the Wellness Center. Thanks to a grant, all have pedometers. The communal goal is 1-billion steps, and so far, they have reached 25-million in the past two weeks. Nationally, diabetes education seeks $150-million, and part of that will go to the Wellness Center. The Office of Juvenile Justice has approved an after-school program there too.

Sarah Carrilo was instrumental in starting the 1+1=1 Program: One step at a time…one foot in front of the other = one community. Ms. Carrilo gave us a tour of the facility, including the family locker room, where family members can help those requiring assistance with dressing, etc., regardless of gender.

(10:10 AM) Tribal Chairman Ernie Stensgar spoke about Tribal governance. His term as Chairman runs until 2005. He explained that "Chiefs have been put on the back burner" and that the Tribe now has a constitution and a 7-member Council serving staggered terms of three years each. The Council deals with State and Federal communications (e.g. RE: EPA and grass burning) and social welfare and includes two legal counsels. About his own position, Chairman Stensgar said, "I really love my Tribe and think I can help them. Also, it’s a very exciting job." As for the future, he said, "(The) long-range vision (for the tribe) is self-sufficiency…That’s the number one goal." He spoke frankly about the epidemic of drug and alcohol abuse in the Tribal community and said that the Council has discussed setting up a version of Block Watch, "Reservation Watch," in an effort to keep drugs and pushers off of the Reservation. Chairman Stensgar also told us, "Environment is very, very important to the Coeur d’Alene Tribe…You know, it’s spiritual." With the elections coming up, he talked about the National Indian Gaming Act and historic rights. He spoke of the budget allotted to senior citizens, supporting their travel, retrofitting houses for handicapped access, and social and health support. The Chairman told us about his heritage. His mother was from Chief Vincent’s band near Hayden Lake. Chief Vincent was his great-great grandfather. His father was Colville. (The Schitsu’umsh acknowledge a matriarchal lineage.) He was born at DeSmet, lived there until he was ~14, then moved to Tensed. (Anne asked about unemployment statistics.) "We have men and women who choose not to work, but all who want to can." He told us that about 60 families are without their own homes and live with others. (Nancy asked about Schitsu’umsh-oriented hospice care off of the Reservation.) The Chairman said that the Tribe looks after its own.

Chairman Stensgar wanted us to know that 25% of gaming revenues are dedicated to land re-acquisition. As a matter of fact, he said, "If we wanted to, we could buy Plummer." (He pointed out that business owners there had actually approached the Tribe to do just that.) The Tribe has a good relationship with Harry Magnuson, from whom it recently purchased ______Bay on Lake Coeur d’Alene. By law, the Tribe owns the lower 1/3 of Lake Coeur d'Alene water and shore up to the high waterline. Private property along the shore remains private in the Tribe’s eyes.

John Hartman explained the GIS Names Place Project. About three years ago, the Tribe contributed $50.000 seed money to start the 1-1/2 year-long project. To date, they have about 3,000 layers of GIS information on file. Gary Palmer of UNLV was the archaeologist who did the original work on the GIS Naming Project with Lawrence Nicodemis. In speaking of their use of audio-recorders, Mr. Hartman said, "You would not believe what elders say on the way (driving to sites of interest)." To do this work, he recommended ESR GIS server software Internet map server. ESR donated $20,000 worth of software for this project. Video clips were limited to 180 seconds. The project included (British Columbia) ethnobotanist Nancy Turner’s work to identify 112 plants and their Coeur d’Alene names. The GIS Project adopted the State’s archaeological inventory form this year. Mr. Hartman emphasized that the policy is to not reveal locations of any site that could be vandalized. They have three levels of information release: 1) public; 2) tribe; and 3) raw sensitive data.

Back at the Casino, Cliff SiJohn told us, "We wanted to show you a classroom that was a thousand years old." He explained some of the lessons we learned. 1) Hardship. Cold. Did we find enough water potatoes? 2) Naming has been the result of conquering, e.g. "Hawley’s Landing," not "water potato landing." 3) Sometimes, the best-laid plans go awry. Alfred Nomee was on the other side of the point, collecting a bucketful of water potatoes, while our group met. 4) It’s quite a jump from the mud, cold, and old ways to the new luxurious facility, then back to the pow wow, where a family still honors its parents. Cliff cited thousands of years of learning from "our own professors…the old people" or elders, sharing oral histories. Theirs is a specialized knowledge, like water potatoes, to be shared with students, carried to the future, and used to develop knowledge as one’s own. (Mr. SiJohn acted out a timeline, moving across the front of the room, form the old ways, to the present, to the future.)

Alfred Nomee reinforced his brother’s message, and told us, "I know my family…where my ancestors came from…because it was taught to me daily." He said, "This is a living culture. You can see it in that (pow wow) tent out there." Mr. Nomee said that he favors the word "tradition" over "culture," because "It is a way of life."

10-27-02 Cliff SiJohn introduced his guest, Laurie Walkerman (sp?), an archaeologist/anthropologist with the Tribe. He commented over breakfast about the power of the gift of food, noting the surge of energy and the increased communication in the breakfast room. He invited questions about the weekend, and Elinor inquired about the eradication of the prairie chicken that inspired the dance we watched the night before. Turns out that the BIA wiped them out around the time of the Homestead Act, concerned that they could destroy crops. Although the traditional style of the Prairie Chicken Dance had persisted at memorials and other spiritual events, it was not resurrected in that form as a pow wow dance (replete with explanation about the traditional form) until about two years ago. Mr. SiJohn closed by telling us to keep looking in the mud to find water potatoes…those nuggets of learning…

Alfred Nomee remarked, "I don’t know who you are," whereupon we went around the room, telling something of ourselves. Lauren shared the similarity in family traditions of her Jewish heritage and those of the Schitsu’umsh. She recommended a children’s book entitled, Knots on a Counting Rope. The personal introductions and revelations offered insight into who we are, what we learned, and how we may have changed as a result of the weekend’s activities.

After leaving the Casino, some of the group went to the Longhouse for a lunch hosted by the Nomee grandchildren. It was a relaxing way to mingle, and to get to know one another better.

10-31-02 Follow-up Present: Nick, Lauren, Bill M., Jim, Kenton, Gary, Walter, Georgia, Jan, Sheila, Sally, Rula, Nels, Anne, Barb, Jerry, Natalie, Mary, Rodney, Gundars, & Nancy

Rodney noted that for Schitsu’umsh, cultural and artistic elements are fully integrated with natural resources.

Anne liked participatory aspects of Coeur d’Alene seminar. Would have wished for more non-structured time.

Some of the group expressed unease with having divulged so much about their inner selves during the Sunday morning session, when Alfred Nomee asked who we are and how we were affected by the weekends experiences. A few talked about having cracked the perceived professional expectation that they have defect-free personas. Bill M. suggested that doing truly personal introductions on the first day of class is a good icebreaker.

Bill M. recommended visiting Audubon Society’s Web page for info on "green" (environmentally "friendly") golf courses (Note: The expectation among group members is that the Schitsu’umsh will investigate those possibilities.)

Rodney posed question about what from last weekend’s seminar might be applied thematically to upcoming rolling seminars… Bill M. thought we should investigate locals’ perceptions/awareness of their area’s influence on the outside world (i.e. local>global, downwinders/downstreamers, etc.). He added that we might think about the connection between social wellness, increased commuting times, and corresponding decreases in time dedicated to community involvement. Walter suggested labor song singalongs. Rula is interested in connections between economies and architecture. Lauren likes the theme of heart knowledge vs. head knowledge and using storytelling to incorporate emotions with learning. Anne offered that inviting a Coeur d’Alene representative to Wallace/Kellogg could draw an interesting viewpoint. Nels expressed an interest in holding onto vs. deviating from traditional values and how that might be manifested through architectural values. Sally suggested looking at the connection between place and health. Jerry is interested in assessing prospects for personal and community renewal. Nancy offered that "fantasy" could be a thematic thread. (The Cd’A Casino as "Chucky Cheese for adults." Kellogg as a pseudo-Bavarian community.)